Fashion is often viewed through the lens of aesthetics, trends, and consumer identity- but beneath the surface lies a complex entanglement of environmental and ethical issues. Among these, one of the least visible but deeply consequential is the role of animals in the fashion supply chain: from wool and leather to down, fur, silk, and exotic skins. How animals are treated (or mistreated) and how their byproducts are integrated into garments matter not only for animal welfare, but for ecological sustainability more broadly.

Historical Context: Farming, Animal Welfare, and Textiles

Origins of Animal-Based Fabrics

From antiquity, humans used animal-derived materials for clothing. Leather (from hides), wool (from sheep, goats), down (from birds), silk (from silkworms), and furs have long been prized for their warmth, durability, and luxury. Over centuries, these materials became integrated into fashion and textile traditions across cultures.

Industrialization and Intensification

With the Industrial Revolution and modern agricultural intensification, animal farming became more mechanized, with greater scale and efficiency. Simultaneously, textile production turned global and industrial, enabling mass consumption of animal-derived materials. As demand grew, economies of scale often drove practices that prioritised yield and cost reduction over animal welfare.

In the mid–20th century, concerns about intensive animal farming led to the articulation of animal welfare principles. The 1965 Brambell Report (UK) outlined early ideas of animal freedoms (“to stand up, lie down, turn around, clean themselves, and stretch their limbs”), which later evolved into the now widely known “Five Freedoms” (freedom from hunger/thirst, discomfort, pain/injury/disease, fear/distress, and freedom to express normal behaviour) (see, e.g., Cikis Studio article) cikis.studio.

Over time, various welfare certification schemes emerged, particularly for food animals, and sometimes their byproducts (e.g., “free-range,” “organic,” “humane” meat labels). These developments influenced public consciousness and regulatory frameworks, though fashion-specific oversight has historically lagged behind food sectors.

Animal Welfare and Fashion: Late Recognition

Only in recent decades has the fashion industry begun grappling seriously with the welfare of animals used in its supply chains. Many industry actors have historically treated animal-derived textiles as byproducts of meat or agriculture, neglecting the welfare impacts of rearing, slaughter, or harvesting. But that separation is increasingly challenged.

Reports such as Animal Welfare in Fashion (co-produced by FOUR PAWS and Good On You) show that billions of animals are used in fashion each year under varying conditions, with many brands not disclosing policies or practices transparently. Good On You+1 Business of Fashion highlights that while more brands publish animal welfare policies, most are still “inadequate” relative to contemporary scientific standards and traceability needs. The Business of Fashion

One interesting niche is the “farm-to-fashion” movement, wherein brands work directly with heritage-breed animals or farms to build more transparent, local supply chains. For instance, LD13 in the U.S. and Germany developed a coat using Romeldale wool sourced through an entirely transparent chain. The Livestock Conservancy

Nevertheless, the relative invisibility of animal welfare in fashion (compared to labor rights or ecological impacts) means there is much more to challenge and reform.

Ethical & Sustainability Challenges of Animal-Based Fashion

Ethical Dimensions

At the core of animal ethics is the principle that nonhuman animals are sentient beings deserving of moral consideration, not mere resources to be exploited purely for human ends. When animals are raised for wool, leather, down, fur, or exotic skins, the processes often involve confinement, stress, mutilation (e.g., dehorning, mulesing, culling), and ultimately slaughter. The degree of oversight, transparency, and accountability is often minimal.

Fur farming, in particular, has been a lightning rod for ethical concern, given the close confinement and brutal methods sometimes used, and the fact that the primary purpose is aesthetic luxury rather than subsistence. Humane World for Animals+1 Many fashion-conscious consumers regard fur (and exotic skins) as especially problematic.

Even with certifications and “higher welfare” claims, there’s a moral tension: can animals truly have dignity in production systems? Some ethicists argue that using animals instrumentally (even in more humane systems) still fails to respect their integrity or inherent value.

Environmental & Sustainability Dimensions

Using animals in fashion is not just about ethics, it has serious ecological consequences:

• Greenhouse gas emissions: Animal agriculture is a well-known driver of emissions. The production of feed, land use, methane emissions, and manure management all contribute significantly.

• Land, water, and resource use: Grazing, feed cultivation, and pasture maintenance demand land, water, fertilizers, and agricultural inputs.

• Biodiversity and deforestation: Expansion of pasture or feed crops often drives habitat loss.

• Pollution and chemical processing: Tanning, dyeing, and finishing hides/leathers involve toxic chemicals (e.g., chromium), which may contaminate waterways, soil, and human communities.

• Waste and byproduct burdens: Even with “byproduct” claims, larger volumes tend to drive more production—and many scraps or defective parts may be discarded.

Moreover, some “vegan” or animal-free alternatives (e.g. synthetic leathers) have environmental downsides of their own (plastics, fossil fuel inputs, microplastics). In some critiques, the “vegan fashion” label may simply shift harm (e.g. to petrochemical extraction, pollution) rather than eliminate it. Craftsmanship Magazine

Recent scholarship (e.g. “Connecting circularity to animal welfare”) also highlights that circular agricultural systems can help close nutrient loops, but they do not guarantee high animal welfare if animals remain in intensive systems. ScienceDirect

Thus, ethical and environmental concerns are intertwined: poor animal welfare often coincides with practices that harm ecosystems.

Industry Challenges and Transparency

One consistent issue is traceability: many brands do not fully understand or disclose where their animal-derived materials originate. The Business of Fashion article notes that few brands reliably trace raw materials back to farms, meaning policies may be weak or unenforced. The Business of Fashion

Also, not all certifications are created equal. Animal welfare certifications vary widely in rigor, auditing standards, transparency, and traceability. Some claims (e.g. “sustainably sourced,” “humane leather”) may be vague or greenwashing unless backed by third-party verification.

Finally, scale is a problem. Large-scale fast-fashion and luxury chains may find it difficult to adopt fully transparent, high-welfare supply chains without significant cost and structural overhaul.

How to Know If Clothing Was Produced Sustainably / Animal-Friendly

For a consumer or researcher, it can be difficult to assess sustainability or animal ethics claims. Here are key signals, criteria, and tools you can use:

1. Certifications and Labels (with scrutiny)

Some labels or standards that may indicate stronger animal welfare or sustainability practices include:

• Responsible Wool Standard (RWS): Addresses land and animal welfare standards in wool farming.

• Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): While primarily focused on organic fibers, it may include welfare criteria if animal-based materials are used.

• RSPCA Assured (formerly Freedom Food): In the UK, covers welfare standards from birth to death for farm animals. Wikipedia

• Down certifications: e.g. Responsible Down Standard (RDS), Traceable Down Standard (TDS)

• Leather and hide standards: LWG (Leather Working Group) audits environmental practices in tanneries (less focused on animal welfare per se, more on chemical and environmental management)

• Animal welfare policies by brands: Some brands publish detailed standards and audit reports; look for transparency, third-party audits, and evidence of enforcement.

But be cautious: a certification is only as good as its auditing, supply chain traceability, and governance. Some brands misuse vague claims (“sustainably sourced,” “ethical leather”) without robust oversight.

2. Brand Transparency and Traceability

Evaluate how forthcoming a brand is about its supply chain. Good signs include:

• Publishing the names and locations of farms, ranches, or animal-sourcing operations

• Disclosing animal welfare audit reports or third-party assessments

• Demonstrating full “farm-to-garment” traceability

• Engaging in regenerative, low-impact, or rotational grazing systems

• Committing to policies such as “fur-free” or “exotic-skin-free”

• Using “higher welfare” language with provable metrics

You can also check rating and monitoring platforms such as Good On You, which assesses brands for their impact on animals (among other metrics). Good On You

3. Material and Fiber Choices

Some materials are inherently less risky from an animal ethics perspective (though still requiring scrutiny):

• Plant-based and fungal leathers (e.g. Piñatex — pineapple leaf fiber, mushroom leather) are wildlife-free alternatives. World Animal Protection

• Certified wool from farms adhering to high-welfare practices

• Upcycled or reclaimed animal-derived materials (leather from food byproduct, scraps)

• Innovative bio-based or lab-grown materials (e.g. cultured leather)

• Avoiding high-risk materials like fur, exotic skins, or feathers unless clearly certified

However, note that substituting animal materials does not automatically guarantee sustainability. Always examine the full life cycle (production, durability, end-of-life).

4. Quantity, Longevity, and Circularity

Even if an item is made with animal-derived materials, sustainable practice implies:

• Durability (so it lasts and is not disposable)

• Repairability or modular design

• Circular design (reuse, recycling, take-back programs)

• Reducing overall consumption (buying less, choosing quality)

These factors often matter as much or more than the raw material in terms of ecological impact.

5. Independent Reviews, Reports, and Consumer Advocacy

Look for credible third-party reviews, NGO reports, or investigations into the brands or farms you are interested in. For instance:

• The Animal Welfare in Fashion report is a good resource for brand performance and industry trends. media.4-paws.org

• Investigative journalism or academic studies uncovering on-the-ground practices

• Brand ranking apps or platforms (e.g. Good On You)

Using these tools, consumers can triangulate whether a brand’s claims hold up.

Innovations, Alternatives, and Emerging Trends

The fashion industry is gradually pushing toward alternatives that reduce or eliminate reliance on animals. Some key trends include:

Wildlife-Free Materials

As noted above, materials such as Piñatex (from pineapple leaf fiber) or mushroom-based leathers are gaining traction. World Animal Protection Lab-grown or bioengineered leathers (cultured from cells) are also being developed to mimic the feel and structure of animal hides without animals. World Animal Protection

Regenerative / Ethical Animal Farming

Rather than intensification, some brands experiment with regenerative livestock systems, rotational grazing, or heritage-breed models that emphasize ecosystem health, biodiversity, and welfare. Initiatives like the “farm to fashion” model (e.g. LD13 and Romeldale wool) illustrate how more transparent and high-welfare chains could work. The Livestock Conservancy

Circular Fashion and Slow Fashion

The principles of slow fashion—fewer collections per year, more durable garments, transparent design, local supply—help reduce pressure on raw material systems (including animal systems). Wikipedia Recycling, upcycling, resale, and afterlife programs also lessen demand for new animal-derived inputs.

Policy and Industry Shifts

Some fashion weeks and governing bodies are instituting bans. For example, London Fashion Week recently banned exotic animal skins (starting 2025), signaling a shift toward stricter norms. The Guardian+2World Animal Protection Australia+2 Melbourne Fashion Week already excludes wildlife products. World Animal Protection Australia+1

Brands are also under pressure from consumers and NGOs to adopt stricter policies, publish animal welfare audits, or commit to full transparency. The Business of Fashion+2World Animal Protection Australia+2

What We Can Do to Help

While systemic change is crucial, individuals also have agency. Here are actionable steps:

1. Change Consumption Habits

• Buy less, choose better: Reduce impulse or trend-based consumption; prioritize quality and longevity

• Choose secondhand / vintage: Extend the life of garments and reduce demand for new production

• Repair and reuse: Mending, upcycling, or customizing existing clothes reduces waste

• Support take-back, recycling, and circular programs

2. Use Informed Purchasing

• Check brand policies and transparency

• Favor brands rated well on animal welfare and sustainability

• Look for credible certifications (but don't rely blindly)

• Favor alternatives (plant-based, lab-grown) when performance is acceptable

3. Advocate and Raise Awareness

• Ask brands directly about their animal welfare policies

• Use social media, blogs, or local networks to raise consumer awareness

• Support NGOs, petitions, and campaigns (e.g. those to ban fur or exotic skins)

• Press for stronger regulation and industry standards (e.g. mandatory traceability)

4. Support Innovation and Research

• Back startups and designers working on cruelty-free materials

• Encourage research in alternative fibers, lab-grown materials, regenerative animal farming

• Collaborate with academic institutions or invest (where possible) in proof-of-concept models

5. Policy and Institutional Engagement

• Push for stronger laws, transparency mandates, and oversight in fashion and agriculture

• Engage with policymakers, industry bodies, and coalitions (e.g. fashion councils, trade groups)

• Advocate for labeling laws, audit standards, or welfare mandates

6. Educate and Cultivate Empathy

• Learn about animal cognition, welfare principles, and ethical philosophies

• Visit sanctuaries, read investigative journalism, support organizations exposing abuses

• Incorporate ethical reflection into everyday consumption decisions

Financial Times. (2024). Sustainable fashion? There’s no such thing [Image]. Retrieved from https://www.ft.com/content/d174e7d7-97c4-43fc-8765-95075e5fcce7